She was one of those tortoises completely at ease with my presence, a wild animal unintimidated by the presence of a nearly hairless ape. So I laid down on sun-warmed rocks and sand and simply watched her watch her world. Her eye flicked here and there as she took in the day. I enjoyed her enjoyment of a warm, pleasant day in the Mojave, in a year of plentiful food. And then, as if to signal both her comfort with my presence and perhaps her declining level of interest in me, she yawned in my face! That was the moment I fell in love.